North to Lizard Island
18/9/ 2019 Overnight to Horseshoe Bay
We are on our way again after our stay in Airlie Beach. We dropped our mooring at 4.00am with calm seas and a full moon. With only 5 knots of breeze the sails were of no use so engines on. It was a great sight to see sunrise over Hook Island and as we were passing Gloucester Island we were fortunate to have whales come alongside Rhapsody, close enough that you could have stepped on their back. The winds did not want to increase so it was 10 hours of motoring until 2.00pm when the sea breeze came in and we were able to raise the sails and finally turn off the engines. With such calm seas were sailing beautifully and as evening came on the winds increased to over 20 knots then gusts to 26 knots so was a bit daunting on your first night sail with such strong winds. A very new experience for us to sail at night, but under a starlit sky and only a few passing fishing boats most of the journey was quite enjoyable. By 8.00pm the wind dropped out again so it was a motor sail the last leg of our journey, arriving under moonlight in Horeshoe Bay at 12.45am this morning. We have awoken to a glassed out sea so may be a day to do some more exploring on Magnetic Island before we resume our journey north with the ultimate goal of arriving at Lizard Island. It is all dependent on the weather as any sailor will tell you.
20/9/2019 Return to Orpheus Island
After a lay day at Magnetic Island yesterday due to no wind we pulled up the anchor this morning and headed north. There was a nice wind of 12-13 knots and a small rolling swell so it was up with the mainsail and as the winds were behind us the spinnaker was flown and what a good sail we had. We were making really good time with the steady breeze behind us and all was going well until we were alongside Fantome Island when all the excitement happened. First there was a lovely mackeral on one of the trolling lines that Steve hauled in and was sorting out when all of a sudden the spinnaker was flapping to the port side of the boat where a shackle had broken off. So by the time the spinnaker was hauled back into the sock and the headsail unfurled the mackeral had escaped his bucket and was flapping on the deck making his presence known and leaving quite a mess. Finally all was sorted out with the lovely fish in a safe container until we anchored ready to be filleted and put in the freezer. Little Pioneer Bay was full of cruisers and all the moorings taken so now on anchor for the night.
21/9/2019 Return to Dunk Island
After a very comfortable night at Orpheus Island we were on the move again to Dunk Island. We had been hoping to stop via Zoe Bay but the winds were east and resonably strong and not favourable so will try again on our return home. We had nice winds of 12-13 knots as we left the anchorage so raised the mainsail and unfurled the screecher and off we went. The seas were very sloppy and rolly but we were moving along. Slowly the winds increased to 17-18 knots so it was time to change sail to the headsail and then the winds dropped down and so of course it was another sail change back to the screecher. We were making good progress and then the winds changed to southerly and the screecher was not working so of course it was another sail change to the spinnaker and off we went as the seas settled down. We had a great sail all the way to Dunk Island dropping anchor at 2.00pm along with all the other yachties in the bay. It was nice to see Dunk Island with the sun shining as our last two visits it was misty rain
22/9/2019 Return – Fitzroy Island
As daylight broke we had the anchor up and were on our way 60 nautical miles to Fitzroy Island. There was a good south east wind blowing and a rolly sea so up with the mainsail and unfurl the headsail and we were off. The wind was consistent and we were sailing beautifully along between 6-7 knots. As we passed Kent Island the wind shifted more southerly so out came the spinnaker and speed increased to 8 knots. The captain was in his element and impressed at how well he can multi-task. The spinnaker was flying, the portable genset was on charging the batteries, the water maker was on making water, the trolling lines were out trying to catch dinner and he even had time to instruct the crew.
After a really good sail we picked up a mooring at Fitzroy Island at 3.15 so in plenty of time for 5 o’clockies.
23/9/2019 Return to Port Douglas
We were on the move again and departed Fitzroy Island at 5.30am on Monday morning to sail the 48 nautical miles to Port Douglas. The winds were at the rear so it was up with the spinnaker and we were off sailing along at 6 knots. The winds gradually increased and so did our speed and our arrival time was coming down. We averaged around 7 knots and as a squall went over the winds went up to 25 knots and our speed went to 12 knots, not my favourite time of the trip but luckily only lasted a short time. We watched a cruise ship head into Yorkys Knob and drop anchor and when we were only 10 nautical miles from Port Douglas Steve caught a lovely tuna on one of the trolling lines. Pressure was on to clean and fillet the fish prior to dropping sails. We were dropping sails by midday and heading into the marina past another cruise ship by 12.30 just in time for lunch. Port Douglas is such a vibrant place and we spent today preparing for our final leg of our journey to Lizard Island.
25/9/2019 Cooktown
After 2 great nights in Port Douglas enjoying the town and preparing for our final destination we departed at 6.00 am this morning. There was a swell of 1 to 1.5 metres and winds of 16 knots. We raised the mainsail and unfurled the headsail and we were off on our 64 nautical mile journey to Cooktown. Gradually the winds moved southerly and the sails had to be set wing on wing and our speed increased. The winds picked up to a constant 18 to 22 knots and Rhapsody was zinging along at an average speed of 7.5 knots or better so we were sure we would make our destination by dark. We were travelling so fast that the trolling lines were running on the top of the water so useless for fishing today. Much of the time we are sailing in the narrow shipping channel beween the mainland and the GBR so you have to be alert to the many cargo ships and Cruise Ships, not something we plan to argue with. What a great sail today, arriving at Cooktown by 3.00pm. We had planned to spend the day here before our final leg of our journey on Friday to Lizzard Island but the weather was looking like being stronger winds in the next few days so we were up early again and on our way to finally reach our goal.
26/9/2019 Lizard Island
Hooray our goal has been achieved, we arrived at Lizard Island today and the next few weeks are going to be windy so we will be toughing it out here along with the other 21 boats on anchor in Watsons Bay. We departed Cooktown this morning and headed out into 23 knot winds and a large side on swell. It was just the headsail at first and we were sailing along at 6 knots with the odd rogue waving mak ng sure we go wet. After 20 nautical miles and me questioning what the hell was I thinking the sea settled down and the wind remained a constant 21-23 knots not counting the gusts so we raised the mainsail with 2 reefs and we took off cruising at speeds between 7-9 knots. The final 32 miles was a good sail, arriving in Watsons Bay at 2.00 pm. So now for a while it is just about exploring and enjoying what the island has to offer after such a big effort to get here.
27/9/2019 Our first day here and the wind is howling but a nice sunny day. We dropped the dinghy down and headed into shore to meet some of the other yachties on the beach playing a game of Bocce. Some have been here for weeks and come here regularly all seemed to be seasoned sailors. We headed off to do the walk up to Chinaman’s Lookout that overlooks Watson’s Bay and the resort, such a stunning view with clear water and all the coral reef exposed.
By Margie
