Great Barrier Reef    2/9/2019

What a beautiful day, perfect weather to head to the outer reef, a place we have only visited once in the time we have lived in the Whitsundays. We departed Mays Bay on Monday morning and headed up Hook Passage to raise the sails for the 21 nautical mile journey.  The winds were very light so it was a motor sail for most of the journey.  It seems many other boats had the same idea as there were boats all around the reef.  We motored from Bait Reef to Line Reef and dropped anchor along with many other boats. Steve dropped his line in as the sun was going down and managed to catch a Yellowfin Bream, hopefully that Red Emperor is not far away. We were treated to a spectacular sunset and an amazing sunrise on Tuesday morning.  The water was so calm it was out with the paddelboards to paddle over the reef.  As we reached the reef there was a big tide ripping across the reef, so that we did not end up at the Pontoon we had to turn back.

It was been a long time since we have snorkelled Line Reef but did so today.  The tide was very strong so Steve being the gentleman that he is, stayed in the dinghy and tied a rope to the back so I could be towed as we drifted along the reef edge, the water was so clear.  Being out on the reef really makes you aware of how valuable it is and how we must do our best to keep it in good condition.

That afternoon as the tide dropped we took the dinghy to explore the reef closer to the reef pontoon and was impressed at how good the reef looks and the amount of fish life, you could not have of had clearer water with an abundance of yachties out enjoying what nature has provided.

After a very comfortable night we did snorkel the reef again but the water was not quite as calm this time but certainly was worth the effort.

Today, Thursday we left the reef and sailed 21 nautical miles back to Hook Passage, there were some light winds so raised the sails but needed some engine power for assistance.  What a great trip with pods of whales breaching and showing off, then a dolphin swimming at the bow of the boat.  Then to top it off along came a sea snake so nature at its best.

Saba Bay    6/9/2019

After a very comfortable night in Hook Passage we awoke to a perfect day for snorkelling and low tide at a good time, so we pulled up the anchor and motored up the channel to Saba Bay where we were lucky enough to pick up a mooring.  It was then in to the dinghy and over to the reef to explore this great anchorage.  The water was so clear and no wind and low tide made snorkelling just spectacular.  The range of coloured corals and fish life was a must see so we knew it was time to get out when our hands were all wrinkly.  This is such a great bay and was packed with people doing the same.  As the tide rose we were able to get to the beach to use the drone and to then do some exploring in the dinghy, watching the stingrays dart away as we approached.  Overall a really good day and makes you realise why you live in the Whitsundays.

By Margie

Sandy Bay – South Molle Island

After our 5 night stay at Coral Sea Marina, we departed yesterday morning and headed out into the bay where the mainsail and headsail were raised.  There was a bit of wind blowing and there was a really great sight of all the racing yachts with their sails up sailing north.  We sailed to Pioneer Rock and then headed towards Daydream Island.  There was a very strong tide coming through the passage and quite a strong wind blowing so it was tacking down the passage to pick up a mooring at Sandy Bay.  The winds did not abate so unfortunately too rough to drop the dinghy and do the walk up the side of the mountain.

Bauer Bay – South Molle Island

After a very windy windy night we departed Sandy Bay this morning and headed through Unsafe Passage and around to Bauer Bay, South Molle Island.  It has been many years since we have visited this bay, back when the resort was still open and full of tourists. It is so sad to see the devastation caused to the resort from Cyclone Debbie.  We came ashore and walked through what is left of the resort and headed up the mountainside to do the walk to Spion Kop.  South Molle Island has some really great walks and the tracks are maintained.  The views down the passage to Hamilton Island and then across to Daydream Island are rather worth the effort.  The bay was full of yachties enjoying the walks as much as we did.

Hook Passage – Mays Bay

After a very comfortable night in Bauer Bay we departed this morning and headed across Whitsunday Passage and into Hook Passage, dropping anchor just east of Mays Bay.  This is one of our favourite spots in the Whitsunday, there is always lots to see with the boats heading up and down the passage and quite an area you can see in most directions.  The winds were quite strong as we sailed across Whitsunday Passage ranging between 19-20 knots but we did have a good sail as the swell was not too high.  We dropped the dinghy down and headed into the beach before the tide went down.  There are quite a number of lovely beaches dotted along Whitsunday Island so always somewhere to go and stretch the legs and explore, especially on a nice sunny day like we have had today.  Sadly we did not spot any whales.

Cateran Bay – Border Island

What a beautiful day we woke to today and have made the most of it.  We headed down Hook Passage and across to Border Island, picking up a mooring in Cateran Bay.  It has been many years since we last visited.  We took the dinghy into beach and did the new walk that has been opened up.  What a view you get from the peak, looking down over Cateran Bay and north then the beautiful bays on the southern side, so worth the effort.

We were even lucky enough to see 4 Green Turtles feasting on algae on the water, the water was so clear today in the bay.  As we were exploring in the dinghy we met up with a lovely old couple in their dinghy.  They have been travelling in their boat for many years and are now in their mid-seventies, obviously this boating is great for aging.  We dropped our mooring this afternoon and unfurled the screecher for a nice sail to Hook Passage to pick up a mooring at Whitsunday Cairn.  We were lucky enough to see some whales having a good time frolicking in the water making a big splash and then a pod of dolphins so a good day.

Whitsunday Cairn – Hook Passage

Another beautiful calm sunny day and clear water, perfect conditions for a paddleboard and snorkel along the reef.  Such beautiful coral here in Hook Passage so clear that you can see all the fish and coral clearly from the board.  The water was so inviting it was time to drop into water and snorkel.  There was some tide flowing through the passage so a good drift to float and view all the coral and fish from the water.  A perfect day in the Whitsundays.

Blue Pearl Bay

What a special morning we had today, two humpback whales came to visit and were close enough to Rhapsody to almost step on their backs.  They cruised around the bay for about 10 minutes before heading to deeper waters.

We pulled up the anchor this morning and hoisted the mainsail and unfurled the headsail and headed east towards Blue Pearl Bay, Hayman Island.  The winds quickly picked up to a constant 15-20 knots so we were sailing between 7-8 knots for most of the 11 nautical mile journey across, it was a great sail today.  We were lucky enough to pick up a mooring and settle in for the day.  We caught up with our cruising buddies from Evelyn and were able to share some of our tuna catch.

Stonehaven

After a very comfortable night at Blue Pearl Bay we dropped the mooring and headed to Langford Island and picked up another mooring.  We took the dinghy to shore and did the new walk that has been opened up, so worth the effort such a great view and such an easy walk.  After lunch we motored across to Stonehaven and picked up a mooring to settle in for the night.  Timing was good we were almost on low tide and the reef was teeming with backpackers snorkelling, so off we went for a snorkel so good to be in the water, It was also an opportunity to give the boats bum and sail drives a bit of a check and clean.

Mays Bay

We spent a really comfortable night on a mooring in Stonehaven with the lights of Hayman Island Resort in sight and all the anchor lights of the other boats in the anchorage.  We awoke to a very calm day and sunshine so dropped our mooring and headed out to Whitsunday Passage to sail south.  The winds picked up and the sails went up to make the most of the breeze and small sea swell.  We had a good sail down to Mays Bay dropping the anchor just before lunch.  This is a great anchorage here quite protected with a good view of everything happening in Hook Passage.  Sadly no whale sightings today.

Hamilton Island

After a very comfortable night at Mays Bay we pulled up the anchor and headed to Hamilton Island for 2 nights.  The winds had increased in the early hours of the morning and was already a constant 20-21 knots.  It was an easy motor through Cid Harbour and down to Hamilton Island, topping up with fuel before berthing.  It has been many years since we have spent a night in the marina to enjoy the island and what it has to offer.  There have been some pleasant changes and the island was buzzing with the usual tourists cruising around in their golf buggies.  We tried one of the pizzas at the pizzeria on Front Street and must say it was a good pizza.  Of course Steve had to try out the selection of gelato on offer.  The IGA supermarket certainly makes a difference to topping up the pantry so you don’t need to make the journey to Airlie Beach whilst out and about around the islands.

Happy Bay – Long Island

After two very comfortable nights in Hamilton Island we departed yesterday morning and headed out into the very strong winds and swells.  Luckily we were not travelling far and with the swells.  All that was needed was a headsail as winds were between 19-29 knots, I felt sorry for the poor people on the ferry heading to Hamilton Island who would not have been enjoying their trip and the Hayman Island Ferry looked like it was fairing even worse.

We travelled across to Happy Bay, at Long Island which we have not visited for many years and dropped anchor to wait out the rest of the weather.  It is a very comfortable anchorage and we were settled in with quite a few other boats doing exactly the same thing.  It has been far too windy to even leave the boat so have been very comfortable with internet and television, what a lazy life but someone has to do it.

Airlie Beach – Coral Seas Marina 

After two comfortable nights at Happy Bay sitting out the strong winds we pulled up the anchor on Monday Morning and headed to Airlie Beach.  The winds were still quite strong and still quite a swell on the sea so all that was needed was the headsail.  It was quite a comfortable journey with the sight of a mother whale and calf frolicking in the water at Pioneer Rocks.  The calf was having a great time flipping his tail, such a great sight to see.

It was like coming home as we came in sight of the town and marina having last seen that sight at the beginning of June.  We spent two great nights in the marina catching up with the Abell Point Yacht Club’s monthly meet and emptying the overflowing mail box.

As you arrive back in the Whitsundays you realise why you live here.

Caves Cove – Hook Island

We departed Coral Sea Marina Resort this morning and headed across to Hook Island.  The winds were finally abating and seas had flattened out.  It was calm enough at first to unfurl the Mainsail and Screecher, but as we poked our nose out into the Whitsunday Passage the winds increased significantly so it was back to the headsail.  It was a really nice sail across the passage today, picking up a mooring at Caves Cove, a place we used to visit often.  Unfortunately we did not spot any whales today, hopefully tomorrow will be better.

Cape Cleveland

We had to spend an extra day at Horseshoe Bay on Tuesday to make sure we had suitable weather to head south, having made the journey a few times in not so good conditions we did not need to put ourselves through another uncomfortable journey so caught the bus to Nelly Bay and back with a great lunch of fish and chips at Nelly Bay.

So on Wednesday the weather was improving but not quite right so headed into Radical Bay for lunch.  What a beautiful bay and a great day to enjoy it.  There were quite a few people enjoying the beach and water.  After a nice visit we headed the 9.5 nautical miles across Cleveland Bay and dropped anchor at Cape Cleveland for a head start to our journey south.  We anchored just below the lighthouse and a great little beach and were rewarded with a spectacular sunset going down over Magnetic Island and then the lights of Townsville when it got dark.

Cleveland to Upstart

After a very comfortable night we headed out of Cape Cleveland early this morning for the 55 nautical mile journey to Cape Upstart. We headed out form the headlands into 12-15 knot winds and a bit of a swell but no whitecaps so hoisted the mainsail and unfurled the headsail for the long journey south.  The swells made the boat bob quite a bit so put one engine on to keep momentum as a long day ahead.  Thankfully it was quite a good trip this time as each time in the past it has been the trip from hell and my share of Rhapsody was going cheap.  Luckily captain you chose a good day and the crew is staying.  As we came alongside Cape Bowling Green just before lunch we were lucky enough to see a hump back whale cruising past on the surface of the water, our first siting for the year and one of the reasons we are heading south for a while it is such a special time to be out on the water.

After a reasonably smooth trip we dropped anchor at Cape Upstart late this afternoon just in time to enjoy our well earned sundowner and another great sunset.

Bona Bay – Gloucester Island

After a very comfortable night we departed Cape Upstart and headed the 45 nautical miles south to Bona Bay.  It was a nice sunny day but a cold southerly wind blowing which was good so we could at least motor sail and arrive at a reasonable time.  The winds were quite light but there was quite a rolly swell on the sea so needed and engine to keep momentum.  Abbott Point was busy loading ships with coal and 5 more anchored waiting to come in and load, that was the most exciting part of the trip.  We were anchored alongside all the other yachties travelling by mid-afternoon just in time for afternoon tea.

Looking forward to spending a few weeks travelling the Whitsundays fully without having to interrupt the enjoyment with going to work and being responsible for a house, hopefully we will get to see lots of whales.

Jonah Bay

Bona Bay was full of yachties and that evening along came the Bowenites for the camping weekend so the bay was full of activity.  After lunch we decided to head a little further south to Jonah Bay.  It was low tide so headed to the top of Gloucester Island and through the other side to anchor in the bay.  As we rounded the top of Gloucester Island we were suddenly hit with 17 knot winds and quite rough seas so luckily we were not travelling far.  It was so nice and calm in the bay and a few campers in tents dotted in the bush.

Armit Island

After a very comfortable night in Jonah Bay we headed further south to Armit Island.

Winds were nice and light and calm seas so we had a really good sail all the way and not far from our destination all the action happened.  Steve spotted a fish on his trolling line so was quickly hauling it in as a shark was chasing his fish.  It was a nice big tuna that was not happy to be out of the water so lots of thrashing and trying to get aboard whilst keeping our course.  Once the tuna was safely aboard Steve noticed there was another fish on the other trolling line, of course it was that naughty shark so a morning of action.

Once safely anchored in the bay at Armit Island it was down to filleting a tuna for the freezer.

After a great week in Townsville we untied the dock lines and headed to the fuel wharf for refuelling before heading back to Magnetic Island and yes one of our favourite places, Horseshoe Bay.  What a sensational day bright blue sky next to no wind (captain not happy) and flat seas so of course it was motor all the way.  All the tinnies in Townsville must have been getting in on the great weather as there were boats all anchored along the shipping channel fishing.  We dropped anchor and enjoyed watching all the activities in the bay which is pretty busy on a Sunday with such beautiful weather.

It was just too nice to leave so we are spending another night here so headed into shore today for the hike up the mountain side to Balding and Radical Bays.  It is quite a challenging walk and gets the heart rate up but so worth the effort once you get to the beach.  It was another beautiful day and even warm enough for a swim but the water was a bit chilly.  We are amazed how clear the water is here so very inviting and plenty of people doing the same.  After the walk back and all those calories burned it was time to reward ourselves with a gelato before heading back to the boat.

We are heading back to the Whitsundays for a few weeks to take advantage of the whales and to spend plenty of time around the islands as even though we have lived in the area for a long time there has always been house and work commitments to hamper our time exploring.

We departed Horseshoe Bay on Sunday morning 14th July to head to Townsville for a week in the marina.  As we departed the winds were light and so we hoisted the sails but as we came around the north east point of Magnetic Island we were suddenly hit with 20 knot winds and rough seas.  As we came closer into Cleveland Bay the seas and winds settled down to enjoy a short sail to the marina entrance.  Once tied up and checked in with the Breakwater Marina we headed into the city to the Sunday Markets that were still on.  We were able to purchase some fresh produce and enjoy a nice lunch in the sunshine listening to live music.  It was then a walk along The Stand and of course a stop at the Gelato Shop.

Being in the marina gave us an opportunity and address to get a new Mainsail Halyard and some good wet weather pants delivered. Hopefully the weather will stay as it has been this week and we wont need the wet weather gear.

It was also an opportunity for Steve to go to the top of the mast and replace the Halyard without being tossed and flapped about by a rocking and rolling boat. 

Our timing is good as July is festival time in Townsville so hopefully we will find some of the attractions.

Townsville is a great place to spend some time and the marina could not have been more helpful with a loan car to head out and get your heavy stuff and a fantastic lady barber who cut our hair.

The marina is situated on The Strand and what a fantastic place to walk and spend time with plenty of places to eat and of course many gelato stores for Steve to get his fix.  We have walked so much over the past week to restock the pantry and found most places in walking distance.  There is also a good bus service to get to the outer shopping precincts to purchase those extras needed.  We were even in walking distance to head out to Queens Park for a free concert last night.  The 1RAR Army Acoustic Band were very entertaining and the backup to Joe Camilleri and the Black Sorrows who were fantastic playing some of their old songs along with some new songs they have released.  The park was packed with people enjoying the entertainment.  We could not have asked for better weather bright sunshine every day so now looking forward to moving north again to get out and do some snorkelling and paddle boarding.

By Marg

   Orpheus Island – Little Pioneer Bay

After two very calm nights in Hinchinbrook Channel we pulled up anchor this morning.

There is so much to see at Hinchinbrook Island and will definitely be returning to spend more time.  We motored the final 10 nautical miles down the southern end and came out at Lucinda and then followed the very long jetty that is used to load sugar cane and were finally able to hoist the mainsail and headsail for a short sail across to Little Pioneer Bay at Orpheus Island, picking up a mooring.  We headed ashore for a walk on the island, finding the remains of a shepherds hut built many years ago when sheep were on the island.  The track has not been used much but did manage to find our way to the peak and were able to see both sides of the island, a pretty spectacular view.

We went ashore again late this afternoon for a champagne barbecue with our travelling buddies on Evelyn as they are heading home tomorrow and we are travelling solo from now on.  There is a really nice beach and picnic table at Little Pioneer Bay so what better than to drink champagne, cook a barbecue and watch the sun go down and then have to drag the dinghy all the way out to the water as the tide has gone down.  We have had a great time with our buddies and will definitely travel with them again in the future.

Orpheus Island – Hazzard Bay

We are expecting fairly strong winds over coming days so decided to only move a short distance of 3.5 nautical miles down to the next bay on Orpheus Island where the island resort is situated.  We picked up a mooring and spent the entire day of Monday inside as the drizzly rain was constant, nothing like freshly made pikelets.

We are still here today and the weather has cleared some so we did put the dinghy down to explore the bay.  Just around the point is Yankee Bay that has a jetty and plenty of coral to snorkel and Hazzard Bay is so calm and protected with a really nice beach and plenty more coral to explore so when the sun finally stays out we will be back to spend a lot more time here.

Rattlesnake Island

We dropped our mooring at Hazzard Bay, Orpheus Island this morning and will definitely be back it is such a beautiful anchorage.  The winds have really eased and the sea quite calm so sailing was going to happen with a motor at the same time.  We motor sailed 23 nautical miles to Rattlesnake Island and dropped anchor at 2.15pm.  The anchorage is quite sheltered and not a boat or person to be seen.  It is a rather desolate looking island and is used for military exercises during the year luckily no live ammunition at the moment.  I don’t believe the  name comes from an island teeming with rattlesnakes or that is what I told myself.

Back to Horseshoe Bay

After a very calm and peaceful night we departed Rattlesnake Island this morning heading to Horseshoe Bay, Magnetic Island a distance of 15 nautical miles.  One we had passed between Rattlesnake Island and Herald Island the wind was in a good direction to raise the sails.  The winds were light and we managed to sail half the distance before the wind changed direction and the engines came on.  The north seems to be full of navy ships we passed Matthew Perry anchored off Magnetic Island and had to make sure we did not enter the set exclusion zone.  We anchored just before lunch and headed into shore this afternoon.  The bay was busy with tourists enjoying all the water-sports activities on off and plenty of gelato being eaten and yes of course Steve had to sample.

We are planning to spend a few more days here in Horseshoe Bay the weather has finally turned nice and sunny with beautiful blue skies and the shorts can come out again.  We hiked from Horseshoe Bay up to Balding and Radical Bays today and had a swim the view in the bays in stunning especially with the sun shining.  The walk is quite challenging so of course we needed to be rewarded with another gelato.  We saw the most spectacular sunset with the sun dipping over the ocean this evening.

Another perfect day here in Horseshoe Bay with the place buzzing with people and their water sports.  We took the dinghy ashore and walked around the suburb and came across the original Magnetic Island School that is now a tourist information centre and a nature reserve full or tall gums and rainforest and teeming with hundreds of butterflies.

Tomorrow we are off to Townsville.

By Marg

Little Pioneer Bay Orpheus Island Anchorage

Shepherd’s Cottage ruins Orpheus Island

Shepherd’s Cottage ruins Orpheus Island

Little Pioneer Bay from Orpheus Island Peak

Little Pioneer Bay from Orpheus Island Peak

East out to the Coral Sea

Saying good bye to our sailing buddies before we go in different directions

Yankee Bay Orpheus Island

Yankee Bay Orpheus Island

Hazard Bay Orpheus Island

Rattle Snake Island

Baulding Bay Magnetic Island

Sunset from Horseshoe Bay

Sunset from Horseshoe Bay

After a very wet night at Dunk Island, the rain did not stop all night but on the bright side we filled our water tank with rain water that we collected and the salt and fish scales were washed off the boat, so there was a silver lining.

The rain eased as the morning went on and at 10.30am we pulled up the anchor and headed the 24 nautical miles to Hinchinbrook Island.  The wind was quite light but right on the nose so we motored the entire distance, plenty of hot water tonight.

The rain kept coming for most of the journey and the swells increased for a while.  By the time we were close to Cardwell the rain had stopped but still very cloudy skies.  We motored up part of the channel and dropped anchor at Scraggy Point and will go ashore tomorrow.

We have heard there are lots of crocodiles here so keeping clear of the water.

Today we took the dinghy ashore to the beach at Scraggy Point to explore.  There are some fish traps near the beach set up many years ago by the local aboriginals but no longer used.  There is a camping ground set up for visitors and we found a walking track through the bush that came out at a flowing creek, but no crocodiles.

We pulled up anchor and motored up Hinchinbrook Channel it certainly is a big island and so green with vegetation right down to the water. This area is apparently the wettest part of Australia when it comes to rainfall and it shows with the health of the mangroves and trees in the area, green everywhere.  After 11.5 nautical miles we dropped anchor at the southern end of the channel at Reis Point.  It must be a local fishing haunt alongside the mangroves as there were fishermen in tinnies all around.

Haycock Island in the Hinchinbrook Channel

Haycock Island in the Hinchinbrook Channel

Ashore at Scraggy Point In Hinchinbrook Channel

Stream on Hinchinbrook inland from Scraggy Point

Looking for Croc’s Scraggy Point

We departed Normanby Island at 7.00am today and will definitely be revisiting and spending more time as it is such a delightful place to visit.

As we got closest to the mainland we spotted Queensland’s tallest peak Mount Bartle Frere at 1622 metres and can be climbed for those enthusiasts.

We had a nice steady breeze of between 14-15 knots and wind at a favourable angle so hoisted the mainsail and unfurled the headsail and had a great sail for most of our journey to Mourilyan Harbour some 22 nautical miles south.

As we came closer to Innisfail Steve was checking his trolling lines to find he had hooked a Spanish Mackerel and hauled it aboard and just as I was about to snap a photo for evidence the fish unhooked, wiggled and bounced along the deck down the three steps and off the back of the boat much to Steve’s shock.  He was speechless for half an hour and went to check the second trolling line to find luck was with him this time and another mackerel was on the line. This one was definitely not getting away and was photographed, filleted and bagged before we reached our destination.

Mourilyan Harbour is a sugar port and a very safe anchorage in the river and a nice place to spend the night. The entrance is really just wide enough to get the small sugar ship in and very sheltered from every direction. Not a good spot apparently, to go in the water or dangle any body parts in the water, salt water crocodile country here.  There  were plenty of tinnies scooting in and out fishing so must be a good area for fishing.

We departed Fitzroy Island Tuesday Morning after spending two nights, it is a rather nice place to spend a few days with some great walks and a nice bar and eatery.  There were plenty of people enjoying the island and constant ferries coming and going from Cairns.

We dropped our mooring at 5.00am (still very dark) this morning and headed south.  We motored for the first few hours as there were a few squalls coming through but the seas were not too bad.  Eventually we were able to raise the mainsail and unfurl the headsail but winds were head on so it was a motor sail for the 15 nautical miles to our destination of Normandy Island.  We were on a mooring by 9.00am.  What a delightful island, we went ashore and walked the island.  Along came a ferry load of people that were all brought ashore for snorkelling and exploring so a popular place to visit.  It was rather cool and cloudy so wimped out on  joining the snorkellers, we seem to be getting rather soft now waiting for more favourable weather to get into the sea.  By 3.30pm the ferry was rounding up the guests to return them to wherever they came from and the beach was free to revisit for a sundowner and barbecue with the crew from Evelyn.  We all headed ashore and were able to use all the picnic facilities available.  As we were heading up the beach we watched another yacht head into the bay and were rather surprised at the speed it was travelling especially when it did not slow down as it hit the sand spit.  Next thing a head appeared from down in the boat and we watched him frantically trying to reverse off the beach.  Luckily there is quite a drop off from the shore and he was able to save the boat from a long night on the sand.